tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-51299832152623725142024-03-13T21:43:50.151+00:00Inner Vision PhotographyInspirational Photography Begins With Inner VisionMatt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-76714566484536657802018-10-17T23:55:00.000+01:002018-10-18T01:25:51.613+01:00Photography at Public Events, Model Releases and Where YOU Stand!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was asked recently where photographers<br />
stand with regards to taking
photographs in public <br />
and at events like parties, concerts, festivals
and carnivals. </td></tr>
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<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">I was asked on Facebook recently where photographers stand with regards to taking
photographs in public and at events like parties, concerts, festivals
and carnivals, and whether or not you need a Model Release. </span></span></span><br />
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<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">Basically, you
do not need a release form if you are not selling the photos. If it is a
public event, you do not need permission to photograph there either,
unless it is a private event and unsolicited photography is specifically
prohibited by the event organisers
under privacy and private property laws. You can post photos for sale editorially without
permission, and to your social media, but not for sale commercially. </span></span></span><br />
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<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">One could argue
that if someone is willing to pose for a photo they are giving their "implied consent"
but I would ask them if they were ok with it, just to be polite. A model
release gives you permission from the model for you to make commercial
gain from the photos and also releases you from any legal implications
like royalties, privacy and copyrights (of the model); they basically sign the
intellectual property rights over to you and agree not to sue you later
for it. You do not need a release for everyone at a public event, that
would be ridiculous, unless everyone has agreed and has arranged to be
there as a model in advance. If you went around everyone at the party asking them to sign a release form giving you permission to sell photos of them forever, they would probably tell you to bog off. However, if you want to sell the photos commercially, you WILL need a signed Model Release form for EVERYONE in the photos that you want to sell !</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">Y</span></span></span><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">ou
can take photos of a carnival for example, and post the photos on
social media and you don't need anyone's consent because it is in
public. The same way you can take a photo of a busy street with people
in and share the photos and you do not need permission
from everyone in the photo. What you cannot do is sell the photos for
financial gain and without permission unless it is for editorial
(newsworthy/educational) purposes. </span></span></span><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody">The same is true for any trademarks or logos in the photo, shops and storefront names, cars and registration plates. Note: Individuals can request not to be photographed under privacy laws
and you would need to be aware and respectful of any requests of that nature.</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody">You
also need to be a bit careful about using the photos for advertising your
business too. It is ok to say, "Here are some photos I took at... etc."
But you would need permission before using them for product packaging or
in a logo design. Since events like </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span class="UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody">ComicCon and Carnivals are on public display, and are newsworthy, it would be ok to sell the images to newspapers or to upload them for editorial use, but not as stock photographs without a signed release.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span class="UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody">This is by no means an extensive guide and you will need to read up on the actual laws regarding copyrights, privay and photography, but I hope this helps clear up some of the doubt and ambivalence photographers sometimes have around photographing events or anything in public. </span></span></span></span></span></span> </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g">Have fun and enjoy the event - and be respectful of others privacy - is my advice.</span></span></span><br />
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<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><br /></span></span></span>
<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"> Matt Blythe</span></span></span><br />
<span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><br /></span></span></span>
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<br />Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-14710169450221216252018-10-10T03:58:00.000+01:002018-10-18T03:33:34.413+01:00Shanklin Chine Harvest Moon - SPECIAL OFFER - Limited Edition Print<h3>
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Copyrights Matt Blythe, 2018.</div>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-9815929433639917672018-09-08T22:12:00.000+01:002018-09-08T22:24:14.341+01:00How to Shoot Event Photography Using On-Camera Flash<div style="text-align: center;">
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One of my favourite photos from last Fridays shoot at my niece's cousin's
18th birthday party, captures the fun atmosphere perfectly! To take
indoor party shots like this candidly, you need to know your flash's
"distance range" (how far the flash is effective) for the strength of the flash you are using and make sure the camera's aperture matches up and is set accordingly for the exposure you want. In
this case, the flash was good from 6 feet to about 25 feet and the
aperture was set to between f5.6 and f8.0 depending how close the<span class="text_exposed_show">
subject was to the camera. If the subject was less than 10 feet away I
was at f8 and further away than 10 feet I opened the aperture to f5.6 to
let in more light. Further away than 25 feet required me to increase
the ISO by up to one stop. ISO was set to 100 most of the time. </span><br />
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The shutter speed is not really important because at close distance the
flash "freezes" the motion and the subject is sharp even with longer
shutter speeds. If you want a sharp background, stay within cameras flash "sync speed" (usually 1/200th second or slower - faster causes
shadows in the image) and if you want movement in the background with
warmer/softer/more saturated colours, set your shutter speed to between
1/25 to 1/2 second; the subject in the foreground will still be sharp
due to the fast flash burst.<br />
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Finally, know your camera and the
settings you are going to use well, by testing them on different
subjects in advance of the shoot, because in the moment people will be
willing to stop what they are doing and pose for about 3 seconds before
they stop smiling and want to continue what they we're doing! During
that time you will need to raise your camera with the correct settings,
compose your shot, focus and release the shutter. Most shots will not be
candid if you need to recompose, adjust you settings and take another
shot. This entire shoot was taken with an old school high voltage hot-shoe flash and adapter to make it safe for modern DSLR cameras, with a
flash recycle time of about two seconds and with the following settings:
1/25 sec, ISO100 to 200, f5.6 to f8 on manual throughout with the AF
set to either centre point or matrix focussing. Also note, the flash was only average strength and pointed directly at the subject. Using a modern, stronger flash, might require you to bounce the flash from the ceiling (if it is low enough) or to diffuse the light in some way, to give a softer light. Keep in mind though bouncing the flash will effectively double the distance from the flash to the subject and you will need to set your exposure accordingly. The flash strength is usually adjustable on modern on-camera flashes, although in this case it was not. <br />
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Just FYI I took about 150 photos of which about 120 were worth publishing. Not a bad hit rate! Click the images to enlarge...<br />
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You can see the entire shoot on my Inner Vision Photography Page | <br />
<a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" href="https://www.facebook.com/innervisionproductions">https://www.facebook.com/innervisionproductions</a><br />
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Copyrights Matt Blythe, 2018.</div>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-36562619524906752252017-04-01T04:07:00.001+01:002017-04-01T05:48:47.278+01:00Colour Space - Best Practices for Displaying on the Web<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPEe-xTT4Fw/WN8WB6FO4tI/AAAAAAAAAt0/AnNQaU01BsQHYHXNwys2L2y-JhWgh5hoACEw/s1600/sRGB%2BPrint%2BFile%2B%25284%2Bof%2B4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sRGB" border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPEe-xTT4Fw/WN8WB6FO4tI/AAAAAAAAAt0/AnNQaU01BsQHYHXNwys2L2y-JhWgh5hoACEw/s200/sRGB%2BPrint%2BFile%2B%25284%2Bof%2B4%2529.jpg" title="" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sRGB</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">aRGB</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ProPhoto</td></tr>
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I was asked recently why files uploaded to the internet, that were saved in a colour space other than sRGB, might not display properly on the internet.<br />
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We have all been there! We have all spent hours perfecting an image only to upload it and find it will not display properly because we saved it in a colour space other than sRGB.<br />
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Most web browsers display best in sRGB. ProPhoto, aRGB and CMYK can all present display problems depending which software you use to display them. The most commonly accepted colour space is sRGB - all monitors are RGB. For print files, the colour space is CMYK since all printers print in CMYK. Converting between the two can cause problems. The best way is to open the files in their original format and save them for web use ie. sRGB. Other profiles have a greater colour gamut which is good for editing and printing but not necessarily for displaying on the internet. The problem is the greater range of colours are not displayed in the the sRGB colour space, so images saved in anything other than sRGB look fine in Adobe but appear dull when displayed on the internet.<br />
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You might also want to look into what your browser says about displaying images too.<br />
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sRGB is the standard for displaying compressed jpeg files on the internet, generally speaking. If the files are saved and uploaded in another colour space they might not display properly. If they are converted to sRGB "in-house", and the gamut of aRGB or ProPhoto is not supported, then the additional colour range is converted to greyscale, hence the slightly dull/dark look when displayed on the web. Even if the files are not converted to sRGB (which is usually the case) and are displayed in the colour space they were uploaded in, most web browsers will not display the colour space properly in true colour, by default.<br />
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Image editors like Adobe Photoshop have no problem with colour space but if you are working in aRGB or ProPhoto and you save the file in sRGB there will still be a degradation of colour quality.<br />
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It is generally good practice to be working in the colour space you want to save the files in, that way you don't lose anything during conversion, apart from the jpeg compression of course.<br />
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Some people prefer a different colour space for different reasons. It all depends what the file is being used for. If you are printing files, the best colour space to work in is CMYK since all printers are CMYK. If you print from any other colour space there will always be a conversion (and that is why printed files do not always look the same as they do on the computer).<br />
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And also why sRGB, although the oldest technology and the smallest colour space, is still pretty much the standard for web display. aRGB and ProPhoto were Adobes attempt to move the technology forward but the rest of the internet didn't run with it for some reason.<br />
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Just to answer the question. Most web sites 'probably' display the files in the colour space they were uploaded and possibly your browser has changed in the last few years? I don't speak with authority for all image hosts but it is unlikely ProPhoto was even available as a colour space when a lot of them began displaying images on the internet.<br />
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Since it would involve either a colour space conversion or to check the exif of every file uploaded on the hosts end, I would say it is the responsibility of the contributor to make sure the files are uploaded in the format they would like them displayed. It is also possible that uploaders view the files with software that CAN display the correct colour space and the file wouldn't even appear differently until it was displayed on the web. Basically, you need to upload in sRGB if you want your files to display in their correct colour space on the internet. Especially important if you want to sell those files and have them look attractive (and not dull) to buyers.<br />
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The main reason anyone saves their work in ProPhoto "by mistake" is if they are using Lightroom, as (for reasons best known to Adobe) this is the default colour space for editing jpeg files. You can change this to sRGB in the settings if you want to make sure your files are saved and displayed in the same colour space you are working in. Lightroom also does funny things like convert the file you are working on to a .TIF format in Photoshop, which is huge since it is uncompressed, and then converts it back into your jpeg colour space for working in Lightroom.<br />
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Lightroom is also a resource hog! And considering it is only a simple photo editor (compared to Photoshop) for that reason I prefer editing my files in Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop. Lightroom has its uses. The lens correction profiles and vignetting can be useful. The shadow/highlight and noise reduction algorithms also seems to be more effective than Photoshop. But for me it just seems to slow my computer up and becomes "laggy".<br />
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As stated before, it is generally good practice to be working in the colour space you want to save the files in, that way you don't lose anything during conversion, and the files appear more or less as you saved them on your computer (depending on your monitor/calibration).<br />
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Personally, I think it would be a good idea if ALL browsers and web hosts recognised and supported ALL colour spaces. Which would be a good goal going forward. That way images would be displayed correctly whichever colour space they were saved in. In the examples above, I saved the same image in four different colour spaces: sRGB, aRGB, ProPhoto and CMYK. As you see, when working with very high resolution jpegs (30Mb for the sRGB and 60Mb for CMYK) the differences are subtle but noticeable.<br />
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I hope this helps and have a great day!<br />
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Matt Blythe.Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-67525662372567384572016-10-26T03:50:00.001+01:002016-12-18T05:21:49.390+00:00How to Photograph the Milky Way - Your True Colours by Matt Blythe<h5>
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"Your True Colours" by Matt Blythe </h5>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U-qbNYCAtpw/WBAUgwv86xI/AAAAAAAAArg/Y5pd-L7ZT-0jDQ661NiXf_nfhIc5i9Y8ACLcB/s1600/DSC_0330%2Bcopy%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U-qbNYCAtpw/WBAUgwv86xI/AAAAAAAAArg/Y5pd-L7ZT-0jDQ661NiXf_nfhIc5i9Y8ACLcB/s400/DSC_0330%2Bcopy%2B3.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /><br /><br />Location</h5>
Culver downs on the Isle of Wight. The Isle
of Wight is a small island off the South Coast of England.
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Time</h5>
This photo was taken around midnight during the month of July 2014.
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Inspiration</h5>
I started taking photos originally with a Kodak 110mm "flip" camera and
then on my 18th birthday I was gifted with a Ricoh XR-P 35mm. I was gifted with a DSLR for my 45th birthday
which kick-started my enthusiasm for photography again. I have always
loved night photography and successfully photographing the Milky Way is the greatest challenge because there is so much to take into
consideration. Like finding the right spot, taking the right equipment,
being safe at night on your own, knowing your way around the camera in the dark, etc. I was thrilled the first time my
sensor ever recorded the Milky Way on camera and I still find gazing at
the stars a mystical experience.<br />
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Lighting</h5>
I parked my car in the darkest spot I could
find on the downs that still had some foreground interest. The trees
here grow kind of windswept as they are exposed on top of the cliffs
facing south, and this made the perfect subject to frame the shot. The
light in the Milky Way is starlight only and the lights from nearby
Sandown (although technically they are "light pollution") gave a nice
silhouette effect to the trees.
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Equipment</h5>
This is one of my first successful attempts
to photograph the Milky Way and was taken with a Nikon D5200 and a
standard 18-55mm kit lens and tripod and exposed for 30 seconds on the
widest aperture f3.5 and ISO 3200. It took me three outings with the
camera before I could even find the Milky Way! This was about my fourth
Milky Way shoot ever and I didn't know much or care about light
pollution at the time, which was lucky because it made the shot really.
Creativity works like that sometimes, it is better than planning,
although planning the shot in advance can be helpful.<br />
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In my camera bag</h5>
In my kit bag I usually have four lenses, a 50mm
prime, an 18-55mm kit lens, a 55-300mm zoom and a 10-24mm wide angle
which I now use to shoot the Milky Way. I always pack my trusty D5200
which is a surprisingly good camera for night photography. I also have a
cleaning cloth (essential) and a remote shutter release, a couple of
spare batteries, memory cards and a few filters. I also take a snack and
a drink of water with me at night. If you become overwhelmed on your
own at night you need a quick way to boost your carbs and rehydrate, it
might be just enough to get you home but it is something to consider if
you are going to a remote location.
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Editing</h5>
Editing the Milky Way is always tricky. You
need to add quite a lot of contrast to the sky without ruining the
foreground or creating too much colour separation. I edited this image
using Photoshop CS3 which doesn't have much in the way of noise
reduction. I mostly used curves, contrast and some saturation to balance
the colours and bring out the details and then sharpened the image
using an unsharp mask and then applied the sharpening only where I wanted
it with a layer mask. The final touch was cleaning up the long exposure noise and hot
pixels in the shadows. I have since taken less noisy shots with a wider
angle lens but I am quite happy with this one, as it was one of my first
successful Milky Way shots.<br />
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Feedback</h5>
Timing is everything when shooting the Milky
Way. It needs to be at the right time of year for your part of the
world (the summer months in the UK) and it needs to be a very clear
night with no clouds and no moon visible. You also need a very dark
location with no town or street lights positioned between you and the
subject. The less light pollution the better. You also need patience and
a way of being able to recognise the Milky Way because it isn't always
easy to see it with the naked eyes. You can use an app like Star Walk or
better still locate The Plough constellation of stars in the sky and go
up perpendicularly from the base of the saucepan. The Milky Way runs
more or less parallel to the base of the plough and the bright spot is
always looking south. Lastly, you will need courage especially if you go
on your own. Things that rustle or or go bump in the night can be quite
disconcerting if you are alone in a dark place, so it is advisable to
go with a friend. And know your camera! Where the buttons are and how
they work because you will need to be able to do this by feel in almost
pitch darkness. And remember to dress accordingly. It can be cold at
night and two hours is usually enough to get a good set of shots unless
you plan on camping at your location. Good luck and don't be discouraged
if you don't get the perfect shot first time out. It is a learning curve and ironically, and like most things in life, what we judge to be our worst experiences, can often produce the best results. And either way, I hope this helps you to get the shot you are looking for...<br />
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See below for more Milky Way photos from this shoot (click the images to enlarge) :-<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6IV3Gkg4-I/WBAXQhzk_gI/AAAAAAAAArs/pVPpn1JpAMkYJRitrRXIH_Bx4KHwjMBuACLcB/s1600/DSC_0197%2Bcopy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6IV3Gkg4-I/WBAXQhzk_gI/AAAAAAAAArs/pVPpn1JpAMkYJRitrRXIH_Bx4KHwjMBuACLcB/s320/DSC_0197%2Bcopy1.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My First Ever Recorded<br />
Milky Way Photograph!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uEJgVjD_e5Q/WBAXWOz9u_I/AAAAAAAAAr0/gr-5ToLglig8t2rtzrcjDrIsEOkhBkIHwCLcB/s1600/DSC_0340%2Bcopy%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uEJgVjD_e5Q/WBAXWOz9u_I/AAAAAAAAAr0/gr-5ToLglig8t2rtzrcjDrIsEOkhBkIHwCLcB/s320/DSC_0340%2Bcopy%2B3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">July 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hCWEQICa10s/WBAXSDLWCjI/AAAAAAAAArw/VnzB50hQo4oaOUUvDrL3k1PNxGyb8wvqQCLcB/s1600/DSC_0341%2Bcopy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hCWEQICa10s/WBAXSDLWCjI/AAAAAAAAArw/VnzB50hQo4oaOUUvDrL3k1PNxGyb8wvqQCLcB/s320/DSC_0341%2Bcopy1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">July 2014</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Also check out my <a href="http://innervisionpress.wixsite.com/photography" target="_blank">web site</a> for more great photographs...</div>
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Copyrights Matt Blythe, Inner Vision Photography, 2016.</div>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-15370172180714829672016-07-07T23:06:00.000+01:002016-07-07T23:06:19.912+01:00Sandown Pier at Night - HDR - Six Images<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fIacEqb3JOU/V37RRaXKlhI/AAAAAAAAAqw/9T3RFZVjnDMcc1HigxmfDPEIqvZxI2zpQCLcB/s1600/Untitled1_shp_bal_up4up_straight1_crop2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fIacEqb3JOU/V37RRaXKlhI/AAAAAAAAAqw/9T3RFZVjnDMcc1HigxmfDPEIqvZxI2zpQCLcB/s640/Untitled1_shp_bal_up4up_straight1_crop2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is a six image HDR integrated in photoshop, taken a couple of nights before the Summer Solstice. I didn't intend to make an HDR but it took that many images to get the exposure I wanted, so I decided to bracket the exposures. The pier and the bay are moonlit while the seafront is lit by street lights, photographed from Battery Gardens on the cliff at Sandown, Isle of Wight. This is the cropped version. The original high resolution image can be seen here on flickr :-<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/27543047084/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/27543047084/</a></div>
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Best viewed in full screen, the detail is phenomenal even at 100% crop.<br />
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Please visit my web site for more information and to contact me :-<br />
<a href="http://innervisionpress.wix.com/photography">http://innervisionpress.wix.com/photography</a><br />
<a href="http://innervisionpress.wix.com/photography"><br /></a>
<a href="http://innervisionpress.wix.com/photography"><br /></a>
<a href="http://innervisionpress.wix.com/photography"><br /></a>
Thanks for looking. :)<br />
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Copyrights Matt Blythe, 2016.Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-32826565603295939752016-04-22T23:44:00.000+01:002017-10-14T11:51:35.388+01:00Stock Photography Review - The Good, The Bad and The UglyBelow is a review of the stock photography web sites I have worked with over the last twelve months. You will find their web sites listed in order of preference. I have been taking photos for the best part of 30 years (since I was 18) so I am not new to photography. I am quite new to stock and micro stock photography however, and consider I am still learning what it means to be successful and make money in the stock sales business.<br />
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<b>1. <a href="http://www.istockphoto.com/portfolio/istock_vision" target="_blank">iStockPhoto</a></b><br />
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<b>UPDATE - 04th March 2017: </b>The iStock contributor portal and web site has been radically updated and improved (in my opinion) in what iStock are calling a "Unification Process". The new login is at the Getty ESPAWS website which used to be <a href="http://www.espaws.com/">http://www.espaws.com</a> and is now <a href="http://www.esp.gettyimages.com/">http://www.esp.gettyimages.com</a>. Both URL's will take you to the same place. If you were previously a video contributor at iStock you will already be familiar with the new web site as it is built around the existing ESP video uploader interface. You can now upload and submit stock photos, vectors, editorial and videos all at the same login and the whole process is vastly improved in terms of ease and time saved, both key wording and describing uploaded files. This is mainly because you can upload and batch edit multiple files at once and the keywords are now disambiguated in from a drop down menu of possible meanings and keyword suggestions. The upload and acceptance process is now based around batch uploads and approval times are around one to two days for regular stock images, depending on the inspectors workload, which is pretty amazing. My 3 main criticisms of the new web site are as follows :<br />
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<b>1.</b> Royalty statistics are now updated <b>monthly </b>instead of daily or in real time, which is OK, but I found being able to see image sales and downloads in real time a motivating factor to keep uploading.<br />
<b>2.</b> You can no longer see an inventory of files uploaded previously to iStock, only an inspection record of the status of submitted files since the Unification Process are available. The only current record of your previously uploaded images and files is through your portfolio on the original <a href="http://www.istockphoto.com/portfolio/inner_vision" target="_blank">iStockphoto.com</a> web site, which is still where customers buy images and make downloads.<br />
<b>3.</b> There are currently no statistics available for uploaded files to see how many times an upload has been viewed. Although we are informed this asset will be available "soon".<br />
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Other than that the whole upload process has been greatly improved and is quicker, easier and the interface is more intuitive to use generally. You can now also apply to be iStock Exclusive contributor without having to wait for the near impossible 250 credit downloads, which for newbys, could have taken years to reach. Applications are evaluated on an individual basis. Good work and thanks to the team at iStock/Getty.<br />
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<b>UPDATE - 18th December 2016: </b>iStockphoto are in the process of updating their website to a brand new portal which will make it much easier to upload photos and report sales. a lot of iStock's problems seem to be generated by their somewhat ageing and well patched website. I am really looking forward to the launch (date yet to be released) and hope it will bring with it some much needed improvements.<b> </b><br />
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I have had an account on iStock since 2012 but only this year started contributing to my portfolio. I have about 200 images uploaded to date and have made around 60 sales which I think is OK. iStock are probably the best stock photography web site in terms of turnover (actual volume of sales) and possibly the worst in terms of commission (the royalty rate paid per sale). iStock were around at the beginning of the stock-boom-phenomenon and are still one of the biggest companies and have a lot of integrity, which to me is important. When I began uploading to stock web sites, iStock were the first. I started off by uploading grainy snap shots from my iPhone 4S and these were not only accepted, but to my surprise I began making sales. I then went back through my old Canon S3 archive and uploaded the best photos from there. It is a good thing that iStock accepted most of my files because this allowed me to learn the ropes and develop my understanding of what is required for stock photography . This is also good for iStock. If you think that for every sale that a contributor makes $1 on, iStock actually make $10, you can see that a large percentage of iStock's revenue is made up from the small number of sales that each accepted image earns. <br />
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iStock also seem to be the most reasonable and sane when it comes to rejections. Most of my rejections were associated with logos, trademarks or identifiable people and properties that required a model release, which I have since learnt to avoid. When files were rejected, a real reason was given for the rejection which made it easy to understand, and I had the opportunity to correct the error and resubmit the file. Which is more than can be said of a lot of the smaller stock web sites.<br />
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iStock's contributor web site interface is showing its age, although functional. Sales reporting is comprehensive although difficult to keep track of, as they have multiple licenses and purchasing schemes and they are all reported not only separately, but differently, and not all sales show up on your profile. Royalties are reported one month in arrears and paid out when your account balance reaches $100. The main thing I do not like about the web site is the upload process. It is difficult to fathom that in 2016, I can still only upload ONE IMAGE at a time and have to meta-tag and describe each image separately. Other stock web sites allow you to upload multiple images at once and then auto-fill meta-data and simply press "next" for each similar image in a batch. Perhaps this is something iStock can develop in the near future because it would speed up the upload process tremendously. I am currently uploading two or three photos per night which takes too long when I have a batch of fifty or sixty files to upload. iStock does have excellent free software that allows multiple uploads called "Deep Meta" but if you are a die-hard Windows XP fan like myself, you will need to update to a newer operating system to install it.<br />
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<b>CONCLUSION :</b> <i>I love iStock and iStock love me! I can see us going places together. However, if they could update the web site and pay a fare royalty rate I would be a lot happier. Giving newbies 15% (or 0.28c in the Partner Program) per sale of their own art, and keeping 85%, is not what I would call a "Fair Trade".<br /><br /><a href="http://www.istockphoto.com/portfolio/istock_vision">http://www.istockphoto.com/portfolio/istock_vision</a></i><br />
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<b>2. <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/innervisionphotography?rid=3789824" target="_blank">Shutterstock</a></b><br />
<b><br />UPDATE - 18th December 2016: </b>After about a year of negotiations and letting go and trusting, I FINALLY got my ID approved and am now uploading at Shutterstock, so I thought it was only fair to give Shutterstock a shout-out.<br />
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Shutterstock are my second best seller next to iStock. On my first day of uploading (the grainy iPhone pics from my phone) I sold FOUR images which was very encouraging. They have a neat app that is simple to use and upload to, functions well and reports sales to you in real-time. Shutterstock seem to have heaps of integrity and are not that fussy about accepting images, although I have had quite a few rejected for unfathomable reasons which is frustrating when you take the time to upload, describe and keyword your images. It seems like a control issue but in reality, it is probably just overworked inspectors being unreasonable. Having said that, the review time for images is never more than a few days which makes the whole upload process a lot less complicated.You can upload large numbers of files at once, copy and edit keywords easily and submit multiple files for inspection at the same time.<br />
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The website is clean, new, functional and has lots of helpful tips and tutorials to help photographers up their game and improve their stock photos. Contributors portfolios are also fresh and look appealing to customers. Sales are frequent but usually only subscription sales which earns the contributor 0.25c per image sale although there are opportunities for direct downloads with better commission rates and video sales if you are into video production.<br />
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Shutterstock deserve a special mention because although I joined Shutterstock around the same time as I joined iStock and all my sample images were approved, Shutterstock refused to authorise my account because I did not have photo ID. I first uploaded my passport which was rejected because it had expired the month previously. And my driving licence cannot be accepted because it does not contain a photograph of yours truly. In the UK there is no requirement by law to carry or even own photo ID and my "old school" pink driving licence is still perfectly legal, so I have no reason to update them. So there it stood. I had a Shutterstock account.... but Shutterstock would not let me use it. In fact, they even blocked my partners account temporarily because she added the same Paypal email address as mine and they thought we were trying to scam them! Many lengthy and frustrating emails later we managed to get it unblocked but Shutterstock still refused to budge on the ID issue. I finally broke the deadlock by uploading my expired passport, my pink driving licence, a bank statement, a utility bill and a press pass (with fingerprints), all at once in a single file which got accepted. It all worked out well, so no hard feelings in that department.<br />
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I hope to renew my passport or driving licence soon just for Shutterstock and hope it will be a worthy investment of my time and money.<br />
<a href="http://www.alamy.com/stock-photography/E554D089-F4A9-43D1-AECA-CFB5555F1F25/1/Matthew%20Blythe.html" target="_blank"> </a><br />
<b>CONCLUSION: </b><i>I really like Shutterstock's professionalism and integrity and the way they stuck to their guns regarding the ID issue! I also like the quick file inspection times and clean, functional website. I am hoping to get more images on my portfolio this coming year, and with it increased sales, so I am putting Shutterstock as my number 2 stock photography company, right up there next to iStock.</i> <br />
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<a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/innervisionphotography?rid=3789824">http://www.shutterstock.com/g/innervisionphotography?rid=3789824</a><br />
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<b>3. <a href="https://en.fotolia.com/p/206181609" target="_blank">Fotolia/Adobe</a></b><br />
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I like Fotolia. Fotolia are very professional and their web site interface is clean, modern and uncluttered. The upload process is simply, quick and easy too. Fotolia were recently partnered/bought up by Adobe so they need to keep their standards high because, as we know, Adobe produce some of the best image and video editing software in the world. It is early days yet and I need to upload some more stock photos to my portfolio. There does seem to be some cherry-picking going on at Fotolia (by "cherry-picking" I mean, choosing which files they want to accept and rejecting similar quality files without a justifiable reason) which can be quite confusing and frustrating if you do not understand what is actually going on. The royalty rate is OK at 33% of all files sold but the credit sales work out considerable less than this (but about average for subscription sales generally). <br />
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<b>CONCLUSION :</b> <i>Some of my files that were rejected on other stock companies were
accepted on Fotolia and with my first batch of uploads I made a sale, so
Fotolia immediately got a thumbs up from me. I am hoping to make Fotolia
my number one or two stock contributor but they will have their work
cut out to compete with iStock and Shutterstock. </i><br />
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<i><a href="https://en.fotolia.com/p/206181609">https://en.fotolia.com/p/206181609</a></i><br />
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<b>4. <a href="http://www.dreamstime.com/Innervision69_info#res13636924" target="_blank">Dreamstime</a></b><br />
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I have not heard a lot about Dreamstime (good or bad) other than they rank in most stock contributors top 5 sellers so, in my opinion, that is a good thing! The Dreamstime web site and contributor interface is excellent, fully functional and jam packed with interesting features, tips and new areas to explore. I initially uploaded about thirty images. Half of these were stock festival photos from the Isle of Wight Festival two years ago and the other half were your basic run-of-the-mill stock images, flower macros, sunsets, etc. All the festival images were approved and ALL of the basic stock images were rejected, which led me to think "hmmmm" out loud. There was also an issue with exclusive images. Four images I had previously set to exclusive, I decided AFTER they had been accepted, to change them back to royalty free but despite changing the setting and saving them, three of them came back still set to exclusive, so the staff at Dreamstime do not want to let their exclusive images go easily, obviously. The other file I deleted and then re-uploaded, only to find that it became rejected this time, presumably for removing the exclusivity? There is the ability to resubmit files but as to date none of the files I have resubmitted have been approved.<b> </b><br />
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<b>CONCLUSION : </b><i>They seem a bit querky and special around approvals but it is too early to tell if this is deliberate or just a misunderstanding, so I will refrain from passing judgement at present. I still like Dreamstime but they will need to break out of the "festival only" mentality and get some real photos on my portfolio if we are to make any real progress together.</i><br />
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<i><a href="http://www.dreamstime.com/Innervision69_info#res13636924" target="_blank">http://www.dreamstime.com/innervision69_info </a></i><b><br /></b>
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<b><i>5. </i></b><b><a href="http://www.alamy.com/stock-photography/E554D089-F4A9-43D1-AECA-CFB5555F1F25/1/Matthew%20Blythe.html" target="_blank">Alamy</a></b><br />
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Alamy are a stock photography web site but like Getty they are also host to
newsworthy photography and your contributions can be labelled such
during upload. This means that newsworthy and editorial photography can
be shared at Alamy even if technically the photography is not perfect.
You can also upload regular stock images to your profile but the quality
must be good as the QC (quality control?) standard is quite high. The
main reason for rejections at Alamy is quality - <i>and my main dislike about Alamy</i>
- is that if only one image in a whole batch are found with artifacts
or "imperfections" they will reject the whole batch and all uploads in
the pending QC queue without inspection, and give the reason why only
one or two of the images failed. It is recommended that newbies only
upload small batches to reduce the likelihood of rejection and increase
the chances of the whole batch being accepted. Luckily, images can only
be meta-tagged after acceptance so not much
time is wasted in this process and contributors are invited to
correct any technical errors and resubmit their work. When I have had
call to contact Alamy regarding queries their staff have always been
courteous and professional. The main reason I like Alamy is because
sales are geared towards professionalism and quality rather than
quantity. <br />
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<b>CONCLUSION : </b><i>I love Alamy! I am
not sure that Alamy love me yet but they will. It is too early to tell
as I have not made any sales yet. I recommend checking them out
especially if you are a journalist and have editorial files to upload
and share. </i>However TAKE NOTE:<i> Rejected files are held in QC for
28 days before a rejection reason is given,
which can seem like a long time if you consider your uploads are
urgent and this is a month where you will not be adding new images to your
income stream. You are not informed that your files have been rejected
and ALL subsequent files you upload are held in the QC queue and
rejected "ad hoc" - without inspection - at the end of the 28 day period,
which is a complete waste of time for the contributor, because as a soon
as one of your files becomes rejected, all further uploads will also be
rejected for a period of 28 days! This does not encourage or
foster learning since it takes time to learn different Stock
Photographer's requirements, and during this 28 days there is no room
for dialogue or improvement. </i><br />
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<i><a href="http://www.alamy.com/stock-photography/E554D089-F4A9-43D1-AECA-CFB5555F1F25/1/Matthew%20Blythe.html">http://www.alamy.com/stock-photography/E554D089-F4A9-43D1-AECA-CFB5555F1F25/1/Matthew%20Blythe.html</a></i><br />
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<b>6. <a href="https://www.pond5.com/artist/innervisionproductions" target="_blank">Pond5</a></b><br />
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Out of all the stock photography web sites I have tried to date, Pond5 is the I like the least. Why do I say this? Well, I had the misfortune of being a Pond5 member for six months and during that time, out of the 50+ uploads, only SIX were accepted and none of these made any sales. Entire batches of good stock photography files are rejected for bogus and made-up reasons and when questioned, artefacts are invented by the staff, which are clearly not visible on the actual image (or accountable to the truth). Of my first batch of 33 uploads, 28 of these were rejected, which started the circulatory defeating process of trying to (and failing) to get more batches approved. One image from my next batch of 13 images was approved and the quality of the file was so poor it lead me to delete the file myself and question the Pond5 curator's eyesight. I subsequently improved the quality of my uploads dramatically, only uploaded my best - most simple - stock photos, feeling confident they could not possibly be rejected unless by a blind man. 100% of this last batch of files was rejected and the reason given was that the images were "fuzzy" and that I should check my camera equipment for defects!<br />
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I wrote and complained of course, but the "help" system is designed to always make the photographer in the wrong and the staff at Pond5 right. The customer-curator representative assigned to your help ticket is a self professed "gladiator" who admits that she has no influence over curators decision but is willing to discuss your images to help you to see why they were rejected. This discussion is without exception, a one sided attempt to palm you off and tell you to try better next time because according to their criteria, your photography isn't good enough.<br />
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Note: Just to keep things in perspective here... most of the files that were rejected are already doing OK and selling licences on other web sites like iStock. I regularly have my photos featured in the Isle of Wight County Press and last year I was short-listed for the Isle of Wight Photographer of the Year competition, of which my "Milky Way and Comet" image is hanging in the gallery at the Dimbola Museum in Freshwater Bay, if you would like to go and view it. Really, I am giving Pond5 a hard time, but at least it is my time I am giving and I am not wasting it uploading, describing, pricing and tagging my best work only to have it thrown in the face of reason THREE MONTHS later (and for no good reason). Three months is the inspection wait time to have your uploaded files reviewed by the way. When I posted in the forum asking why the approval/rejection wait time
is so long and why all my images were being rejected, I was told by other
contributors to "man-up" and "get over it" and then my post was deleted. Enough said about Pond5.<br />
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<b>CONCLUSION : </b><i>To date I have stopped uploading to Pond5. I like the Pond5 interface and the ability to set your own price and receive 50% of the royalty which I think is fair. However, in order to sell photography you actually need some photos in your portfolio and with only SIX images accepted in as many months, it isn't going to happen any time soon. Pond5 seem to be cherry picking (or cock-a-roaching) contributors work and rejecting others without any real reason, consistency or criteria for their decisions other than "what we like" which is not a fair representation of an artists work. The unacceptable lead time to approval/rejection and the 95% rejection rate says to me they are trying to keep the company small and turn over a high profit at the same time, which is hurting the contributor and will, if they do not become more flexible, eventually lead to losses. Whether or not I like Pond5 and whether or not they like me, it is still <u>impossible</u> to sell your photography if you cannot advertise it on their web site, so to me, they are not much use to anyone. I hope they review their business model and prove me wrong.... but what they cannot do is show me the invented artefacts they claim to see in my photographs which simply put: ARE NOT THERE. And with that said, I will not be uploading another batch of my best photos only to wait THREE MONTHS to have them all rejected and be told I am not good enough, when it is clearly Pond5 who are experiencing the technical difficulties. I have now closed my account at Pond5!</i><br />
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You can see a selection of the images that were rejected at Pond5 below....<br />
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There are many small, medium and large stock web sites to check out and discover. Some others I would like to join in the not-to-distant-future include 123RF, CanStockPhoto, and Stockfresh. PhotoDune are no longer accepting new contributors, so if you were hoping to start uploading there you might be disappointed.<br />
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Check out this list for more stock web sites to explore and contact me through the blog if you wish to work with me personally.....<br />
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<a href="http://microstockinsider.com/site_reviews">http://microstockinsider.com/site_reviews</a><br />
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And Have a Great Day! <br />
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Matt :)<br />
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Copyrights Inner Vision Photography, 2017.</div>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-64435100247822958732016-03-25T03:58:00.002+00:002016-04-07T13:21:21.972+01:00Nikon D90 - REVIEW - Still A Good Camera<br />
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<br />
I recently acquired a Nikon D90 when I purchased a 50mm prime lens from a friend and
took it for a low light test shoot last night at Sandown Airport on the Isle of Wight. Quite impressed with the
camera build and functionality although the image sharpness
dropped off a little when cropped at 100% despite using the lowest native ISO (200)
and a long exposure. In good lighting conditions sharpness was good and
chromatic aberration was minimal. At 12mp I think it is showing its
age a bit next to modern cameras with newer proce<span class="text_exposed_show">ssors
and sensors with twice the resolution. This will make an excellent
camera to learn with or a decent backup and the body is the same (more
or less) as the D7200 so it will be a good practice model until I can
afford an upgrade. </span><br />
<br />
<span class="text_exposed_show">Things I like about this camera are the build
quality, the illuminated LCD screen on top of the camera which saves hours of battery
life when not using the back screen, and not having to reset the Self
Timer for every shot once it is set. I also like that the camera body is the forerunner for the newer D7000 range of Nikon crop sensor cameras and my current DX lenses are all compatible. I bought the camera with a 18-105mm kit lens, battery grip, new strap,
remote shutter release, charger and macro reversing ring. All welcome additions to my kit bag.</span><br />
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The D90 focusses well in low light and hunts less than a lot of modern cameras with more focus points and has the full functionality of a modern DSLR. However, the body is not weather sealed so keep it out of the rain.<br />
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<span class="text_exposed_show">See sample images below...</span><br />
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Click the images to enlarge.</div>
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<span class="text_exposed_show">The first image is the JPEG straight out
of the camera with only +5 saturation and minor horizon straightening.
The next three night shots tested the camera well in low light and
provided good contrast between light and dark. Post processing these
images included minor saturation and sharpening only. Most of the
saturation was done "in camera" by using a long exposure and setting the
camera to "Vivid". The last image is straight-out-of-the-camera (no post processing) and was shot at night in full darkness at ISO800 with a long exposure. As you can see for a 12mp camera creating
approximately 4000 x 3000 pixel photographs in low light, the detail and low noise is
surprisingly good. All these images and more are licensable on request and will be uploaded as stock eventually.<br /><br />MY VERDICT : Still a good camera. If you are starting out in photography or you need a low budget backup and you can get your hands on a pre-loved, good condition Nikon D90, you will not be disappointed :)</span></div>
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Copyrights Matt Blythe, 2016.</div>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-44078467715050272832015-11-25T01:51:00.001+00:002015-11-25T01:51:25.578+00:00The New *Inner Vision Photography* Web Site<div style="text-align: center;">
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Copyrights Inner Vision Photography, Matt Blythe, 2015.</div>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-19617733496608722192015-07-29T21:44:00.000+01:002015-11-16T05:53:23.535+00:00Milky Way Photography - Testing the Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 Di II Aspherical LensThis was an absolutely awesome night for photographing the Milky Way. At first I
thought it was cloud but it was the Milky Way and clearly visible to the
naked eyes. I also saw several meteors and even caught one on camera. I
was taking the <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B001GVINAQ" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="902c9d7a16e90bdc73f1fb6ac37054ba" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 Di II Aspherical " href="http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-10-24mm-3-5-4-5-Aspherical-Pentax/dp/B001GVINAQ/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=902c9d7a16e90bdc73f1fb6ac37054ba&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_8588862" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 Di II Aspherical </a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_8588862" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=902c9d7a16e90bdc73f1fb6ac37054ba&_cb=1447653191774" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" />lens out for a test
run and I have never seen the Milky Way so clearly. Photographed from an undisclosed location (I had the farmers permission to be there) with
surprisingly little light pollution around.<br />
<br />
The lens performed surprisingly well, at
10mm the image is a bit soft around the edges but as long as the subject is
centre frame it seems fine and can be easily be improved by increasing the
focal length or f-stop number. Despite the less than brilliant reviews
I have read, this "ultra wide angle" lens is a significant upgrade from the 18-55mm kit lens
and so far I am very happy with it.<span class="emoticon emoticon_smile" title=":)"></span><br />
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When photographing the
Milky Way, it is important that any ambient light from towns/street
light is behind you and you are looking towards the Milky Way. The less
light pollution, the more easily visible the Milky Way will be. Shooting
wide open (maximum aperture) and adjusting the shutter speed and ISO
allows you to balance your exposure so the result is not too bright or
too dark.<br />
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The images below are photographed with the Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 Di II Aspherical lens, at f3.5, 25secs, ISO 4000 and post-processed in Lightroom and Photoshop CC. The colour banding in the first two images is mostly caused by increasing the contrast to enhance the detail in the Milky Way.<br />
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I am looking forward to taking this lens out and seeing how well it performs with landscape photography and it is a welcome and professional addition to my kit bag.<br />
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Original Photography by Matt Blythe.<br /><br />Copyrights © Inner Vision Photography 2015.</center>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-30582486604225035382015-06-25T01:17:00.001+01:002015-06-25T01:17:52.727+01:00Honest SunThis image is five photographs, focus stacked and merged in Photoshop. The settings for each image were ISO 200, 1/250 sec and with an f stop between f4.5 and f9. I exposed for the sky, the background and foreground separately and focussed on different points in each photo for a greater depth of field. The final image had some sharpening too. What I call "art" rather than photography but I like the effect. I am calling this image "Honest Sun" and prints will be available on request.
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-31783567328657333972015-05-19T00:50:00.004+01:002015-11-16T05:56:07.529+00:00Appley On SolentOn my way home, first night back from the mainland. I have been eyeing
this shot for about a year and when the opportunity arose I took the
leap. Very pleased with the result and the minimum processing required
during post production. If only it was always this easy! Taken at Appley
car park in Ryde on the Isle of Wight, UK with the <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B00WTC2OBA" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="c6df75601c87f9d5b94b4a6c8237a2ea" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="Nikon d5200" href="http://www.amazon.com/Celltime-Exclusive-Electronic-Commander-Extremespeed/dp/B00WTC2OBA/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=c6df75601c87f9d5b94b4a6c8237a2ea&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_7025404" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Nikon d5200</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_7025404" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=c6df75601c87f9d5b94b4a6c8237a2ea&_cb=1447653367398" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> and <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B003ZSHNCC" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="af7bd122bfcbda4944a49c017d009b20" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="55-300mm" href="http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-55-300mm-4-5-5-6G-Vibration-Reduction/dp/B003ZSHNCC/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=af7bd122bfcbda4944a49c017d009b20&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_5009570" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">55-300mm</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_5009570" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=af7bd122bfcbda4944a49c017d009b20&_cb=1447653395138" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> at 55mm. Settings as follows:<br />
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55.0 mm
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20 secs
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ISO 400
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See the high res image on Flickr here:<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/17079372013">https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/17079372013</a><br />
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Original Photography by Matt Blythe. <br />
Copyrights © Inner Vision Photography 2015.</div>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-29795257171319805252015-02-02T01:30:00.000+00:002015-11-16T05:56:46.014+00:00Inside Your DSLR Camera - How It WorksEver wondered what happens inside your <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B00RM73X8A" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="1cd4d61d8fd3eb8f115fd59e521d6517" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="DSLR camera" href="http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Camera-18-55mm-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00RM73X8A/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=1cd4d61d8fd3eb8f115fd59e521d6517&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_2236807" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">DSLR camera</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_2236807" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=1cd4d61d8fd3eb8f115fd59e521d6517&_cb=1447653436116" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" />? This video on Youtube best describes it and makes sense of the front and rear curtain, the mirror, shutter speed, aperture, the sensor... and how they all come together to take a picture for you when you press the shutter release button. The technology is fascinating especially at very high shutter speeds. Watch the video in slow motion by The Slow Mo Guys. <br />
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-74440839576576083772015-01-05T01:54:00.000+00:002015-01-05T01:57:59.519+00:00The Inner Vision Photography Logo <br />
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-576858482361268262014-11-18T05:34:00.000+00:002017-04-01T04:09:13.128+01:00Printing Your Photographs - RGB or CMYK?Lots of commercial printers use<b> </b>CMYK colour<b> </b>space which will print out differently if the image mode being printed is RGB. If the printer uses CMYK colours, changing the image mode to CMYK gives a closer representation of what the print out will actually look like. Also if you "calibrate" your monitor it can help with printing colours but not all printers use the same colour profiles or the same ink. <br />
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Trying to print an image that is rendered in RGB on a printer that uses CMYK is a bit like trying to see what the weather is doing by looking through a window covered by net curtains. If you are using professional printers you need to be aware what colour space they are using. Saving your image in RGB is fine if you are printing at home on an all-in-one <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B00AVWKUJS" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="58b9ee870fd42d8dfc57335a47d59d6a" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="home/office printer" href="http://www.amazon.com/Canon-MX922-Wireless-Printer-Scanner/dp/B00AVWKUJS/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=58b9ee870fd42d8dfc57335a47d59d6a&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_7514860" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">home/office printer</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_7514860" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=58b9ee870fd42d8dfc57335a47d59d6a&_cb=1447653524615" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> but if your printer uses CMYK it will affect the way the image looks and this could be significantly different from the way it looks on your computer screen.<br />
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This is a quote form the Jessops website:-<br />
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;">"To meet the requirements of as many customers as possible, we base our automatic workflow on sRGB colours that are then converted to the outputting systems with the help of ICC profiles. For digital printing processes we convert the sRGB colours to the CMYK colour space shortly before printing.<br /><br />"Jessops Photo Software allows for embedded RGB-ICC Profiles. Images in AdobeRGB, ECI-RGB or ProPhotoRGB colour space will be interpreted correctly in these software versions.<br /><br />"If you send us your images in any other colour space, we are suggesting the following steps to ensure the optimal colour results: Convert your images to sRGB (e.g. in Adobe Photoshop go to "Edit" and then "Convert to Profile"). Afterwards please integrate your images into the layout of your Jessops Photo product."</span></div>
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This explains why so often photographs we print don't always come out how we see them on the monitor: the printer software is converting the RGB colour space to CMYK. If you are planning to pop into the local printers tomorrow, try asking them if they accept images in the CMYK colour space. Also calibrate your monitor (if that is even possible) which will give you a better idea how your images will come out. There are certain situations when you have to convert to CMYK and most professionals in the media/printing industry understand this. That is exactly why companies like Jessops print in CMYK and do the conversion from RGB for you. If you are happy printing at home or with a "near enough" conversion from RGB to CMYK go ahead. RGB will be adequate for most "best practices". RGB (red, green, blue) is an additive system (add colours together to get white) whereas CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, black) is a subtractive system (add colours together to get black). This is why all printers are CMYK and all monitors are RGB.<br />
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However, when I send book files to the printers for publishing they must be in CMYK . I have to work on the files and render them in CMYK to know "exactly" what they are going to look like when they come off the press. My company even have a disclaimer saying if you upload images in RGB it will cause colour problems and they will not take responsibility for them. Printing from RGB isn't even an option for most publishing professionals. Images are rendered in RGB and printers print in CMYK , there has to be a conversion somewhere.<br />
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I can print framed photography prints of high resolution RGB no problem, but I cannot afford book covers coming back from the printers with dull colours or anything less than they looked on the screen, or as near as my screen is to calibrated anyway. That is why all the files I upload for publishing are print-ready PDF's with CMYK embedded high resolution images.<br />
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The point is, if I open the file in CMYK like I should, I don't need to convert the file from RGB to CMYK. If I forget or I am busy and I use sRGB then I need to convert the files to US Web Coated (SWOP) v2 (a CMYK profile), and then have to retouch the images because the colours lose vividness during the conversion, a loss I don't need coming back from the printers.<br />
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I primarily print paperback full colour covers on glossy finish.My printers won't even accept lossy conversions from RGB and they are one of the biggest companies in the publishing industry. When I upload files to the web the best results are RGB. When I upload to the printers they have to be in CMYK (talking from years of experience). Regarding which profile is best for printing, sRGB (standard red, green, blue) or aRGB (Adobe red, green, blue), it doesn't really matter as far as the printer is concerned because they are converted to CMYK anyway, although some will prefer one or the other depending what software they use for the conversion. Photoshop loves CMYK and PDF's and can handle the conversion no problem. But if you render the files in the same CMYK profile that the printers use there will not be any conversion, which means no losses of colour integrity - you get what you see on the screen - more or less. More than RGB gives you anyway. <br />
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From wikipedia (in American):-<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">"The Adobe RGB (1998) color space is an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RGB_color_space">RGB color space</a> developed by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adobe_Systems">Adobe Systems, Inc.</a> in 1998. It was designed to encompass most of the colors achievable on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMYK">CMYK</a> color <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_printing">printers</a>, but by using <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RGB_color_model">RGB</a> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primary_color">primary colors</a> on a device such as a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_display">computer display</a>. The Adobe RGB (1998) <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_space">color space</a> encompasses roughly 50% of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visible_spectrum">visible colors</a> specified by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lab_color_space">Lab color space</a> – improving upon the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamut">gamut</a> of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRGB_color_space">sRGB color space</a>, primarily in cyan-green <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hue">hues</a>."</span><br />
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The mistake people make is that RGB looks better on the screen but loses colour when converting to CMYK so most people do not use CMYK for that reason. Which is understandable. RGB is fine for most applications. However, working on the file and saving in CMYK would prevent such losses that might be incurred from the printers. Keeping in mind all physical printers use different inks and have different hardware and colour profiles so no two printers will ever give the same results. That's why I say (with tongue in cheek) "calibrate your monitor" because of course you can't accurately calibrate your monitor any more than you can calibrate your own vision. Or calibrate reality for that matter.<br />
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That's why we have guidelines and goal posts and if you kick the ball somewhere between the goal posts you are likely to get the result you want... more or less accurately depending on the integrity of the printer you are using. I imagine with today's technology the RGB-to-CMYK conversion is pretty good, although I know for fact some photography prints come back less vividly than the images that got sent out, a problem I don't have when designing book covers thankfully. <br />
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</i><b>"My principle is this: if it looks good it worked.<br />So I must have done something right."</b></center>
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<b>Matt Blythe.</b></div>
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Talking of which, the finished cover design for Vitor Rodrigues' new book is now ready for uploading to the printers. Coming to a bookshop near you soon. This is a RGB jpeg for uploading to the internet, the print-ready file is a CMYK layered / embedded PDF.<br />
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As a general rule, RGB is better for displaying on the internet (on a web page for example) and CMYK is better for lossless printing. Choose whatever is best for you :)<br />
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Matt Blythe.<br />
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This image of the sun bursting through clouds was taken from Brighton Racecourse. The street light gives the impression that it is illuminating the whole of Brighton. Awesome! <br />
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The iPhone isn't really up to a lot of zoom and the image becomes quite grainy, quite quickly, in proportion to the amount of zoom you use, and most of the foreground was in dark shadow. As far as I know the iPhone is 'aperture priority' in that it adjusts the exposure by increasing the shutter speed and always uses the same f stop number 2.4 and the lowest ISO possible, which is somewhere between 50 and 800 (with the 4S model) and 3200 with the iPhone 5, so there isn't much scope for landscapes where you want depth of field and sharp focusing across the image by using a bigger f stop number (smaller aperture).<br />
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However, if you are out and about and you see an awesome sunset - and an iPhone is all you have handy - you can still take some pretty impressive shots with the 8mp front camera. This image was enhanced using the Adobe Photoshop Express App for iPhone, which is a bit basic, but OK for a phone app if you just want to make quick adjustments to things like contrast and brightness. <br /><br /> Another trick I discovered with iPhone (and most digital cameras) is that if you take the photograph in low light but turn the flash off, because the iPhone is auto-everything, it compensates for the low light by decreasing the shutter speed and increasing the ISO. The result is the picture is brighter and more vivid than it would have been in bright light or with the flash on.<br /><br />You can also adjust exposure on the iPhone by tapping the screen before you take the photograph. Tapping the screen selects the point you want to focus on and also exposes the image for that area, so the exposure can be adjusted somewhat by tapping lighter or darker areas of the image. If one thing can be said about the iPhone camera, it is that it is versatile across a broad spectrum of lighting conditions.<br /><br />See the images below for more photography taken with the iPhone (click the images to enlarge). To view all iPhone photographs in this set <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/sets/72157644963244036/" target="_blank">click here</a>.<br />
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For more great photography tips like these, visit the <a href="http://innervisionphotography21.blogspot.co.uk/">Inner Vision Photography</a> blog.
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-49226019142349090212014-08-17T19:38:00.002+01:002014-08-17T19:38:37.001+01:00New Facebook Page ~ Please LikeTrying out the Facebook embed code... come and like our new page on Facebook :)
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-13324179702125213972014-07-20T20:00:00.000+01:002015-11-16T06:14:32.304+00:00How To Photograph Lightning<span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}">To photograph
lightning you need to set the camera up to expose for no more than about
30 seconds and ideally you need a tripod and a remote control shutter
release. If you do not own a <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="B00F5JV4NS" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="d1a219c3000842ecb1e155be7ef1e6d5" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="remote shutter release" href="http://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-FTML-L3-Wireless-Shutter/dp/B00F5JV4NS/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=d1a219c3000842ecb1e155be7ef1e6d5&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_6715692" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">remote shutter release</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_6715692" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=d1a219c3000842ecb1e155be7ef1e6d5&_cb=1447654429365" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" /> you can set your camera to self timer (2 second delay) which will open your shutter 2 seconds after you press the shutter release button and will avoid camera movement during exposure. You need to position your camera in a dark place pointing
towards the lightning, and then when you intuitively feel like a bolt of
lightning is eminent, open the shutter.... if you <span class="text_exposed_show">are
lucky and the lightning happens for you... you need to close the
shutter as soon as possible to avoid light pollution from further
lightning, which can over expose your shot. I aim for around 15 to 30
seconds exposure at around f5.6 and ISO 400 but often need to adjust
these depending on the intensity of the storm and how far away it is. </span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="text_exposed_show">If you use either your cameras "Bulb" or "Time" setting you can open the shutter by pressing the shutter button and it will close when you release the button, or next time press the button in the case of "Time". This removes the need to set the shutter speed and you can expose your photograph intuitively or even count a number of seconds until you close it again.<br /><br />If
you do not move your camera when taking photos, you can also combine multiple shots post
production, with Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom, which can create a
dramatic affect. If you do not get your perfect lightning photo first time, be patient... it may take you several attempts to get the shot you are happy with.<br /><br /><u><b>NOTE</b></u> : Do not stand outside in a lightning storm! Not only are
you at risk of being struck by lightning but your equipment might get
wet too. Ideally, you will want to wait until the storm passes and then go
somewhere high up and photograph it from a distance, for the widest
angle possible. </span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="text_exposed_show">These are just guidelines of course and it is up to you
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<span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="text_exposed_show">Good luck and have fun but above all
BE SAFE.</span></span><br />
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<span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="text_exposed_show"></span></span><span class="userContent" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}">My
first attempts at photographing lightning storms </span></div>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-83018927602157652932014-06-30T00:00:00.000+01:002015-11-16T06:10:01.598+00:00Metering Vs Manual - A Rough GuideThe images below were from an unplanned photo shoot I happened into at sunrise on the beach not long ago in my local town on the Isle of Wight. I started taking photographs in Aperture Priority but it did not suit the lighting conditions. The sun was bright and already quite high up in the sky and there was a white haze diffusing the sunlight causing metering problems. I got some nice shots in Auto Mode, which is always the easy option, but I found by under exposing the images slightly in Manual Mode (by increasing the shutter speed and reducing the size of the aperture, while keeping the lowest ISO possible) I was able to expose correctly for the sun and still maintain image integrity in the shadows. This also made post production retouching a lot easier.<br />
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There are basically two schools of thought when it comes to retouching images, and (in my experience) most photographers prefer to either slightly over or underexpose their images for retouching. Personally, I prefer under exposed images as the camera sensor retains more information in the image, even if you cannot see it initially when you take the shot. Under exposed images are also better (in my experience) for creating images with a high dynamic range. Images with a high dynamic range basically have a lot of information and details in the image across a high range in both the shadows and the highlights. This can be done either by combining images of different exposures or by correctly exposing an image, and then correcting for any over/under exposure post production, with software like Adobe Photoshop or <a amzn-ps-bm-asin="0133979792" class="amzn_ps_bm_tl" data-amzn-link-id="0b74e68f1070c1f61fa113ce5be9e451" data-amzn-ps-bm-keyword="Lightroom" href="http://www.amazon.com/Photoshop-Lightroom-Digital-Photographers-Voices/dp/0133979792/ref=as_li_bk_tl/?tag=innervision-20&linkId=0b74e68f1070c1f61fa113ce5be9e451&linkCode=ktl" id="amznPsBmLink_9628383" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lightroom</a><img alt="" border="0" height="0" id="amznPsBmPixel_9628383" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?source=bk&t=innervision-20&bm-id=default&l=ktl&linkId=0b74e68f1070c1f61fa113ce5be9e451&_cb=1447654173502" style="border: none !important; height: 0px !important; margin: 0px !important; padding: 0px !important; width: 0px !important;" width="0" />.<br />
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Metering is only a guide and unless you are using the camera a lot in Auto modes it is almost always better to achieve the results you want in manual. I use metering to give me a 'rough guide' to the exposure settings, then thinking about what kind of affect I want, I dial in the settings in manual. This invariably results in an over/under exposed picture, then it is simply a case of adjusting shutter speed, aperture and/or ISO until I find what I call the "sweet spot". I next to never use Aperture Priority as I usually choose the aperture based on what kind of affect I want and then set the shutter speed accordingly. Of course this doesn't always work if you have moving subjects and want to take action shots where you might not have time to play around with the correct settings, in which case, Automatic Mode or Shutter Priority would be the better options. This tutorial is best suited to landscape photography.<br />
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I call it the sweet spot because when you find it, you can adjust settings one or two stops either side and still get a great photo, and with that in mind just click away. I don't use exposure compensation unless I am in extreme light conditions for example, in snow or shooting directly into the sun in bright daylight, although using exposure compensation can give you an exposure somewhere between <i>f</i> stops which can be helpful.<br />
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Sometimes I shoot in Auto and get great images, but if you want more flexibility in the affect you want to capture, you need to get a feel for the settings in manual. For me getting a great photo is about getting the camera to see what I am seeing so you can share that with others. It doesn't have to be perfect. Sometimes you get a great photo when you least expect it, which is part of the joy of photography! Anyone can do it. But to do it well means Mastering the camera and what it does is just part of the learning process.... like learning to play a musical instrument... it's not about what you play, or which instrument necessarily... it's about how you play that is an expression your own Inner Vision. <br />
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Hope this helps and good luck with your photography (click the images to enlarge).<br />
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<b>Original Images:</b> <br />
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-89098713424167546662014-05-25T22:59:00.000+01:002014-07-22T01:47:40.990+01:00Up Close With VeronicaIt was a lovely day so I ventured into the garden with my camera to see what would inspire me. The Veronica on my rockery was just starting to come into flower so I thought I would try for a close up.<br />
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I took this using my 18-55mm kit lens at 55mm using aperture priority with f7.1 and ISO 200. I was within six inches of this beautiful little flower when I took the shot. I'm really happy with the exposure and I haven't needed to retouch it at all. <span style="text-align: justify;">The original uncropped image is below.</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-36636851832522403032014-05-05T19:23:00.000+01:002014-05-25T00:03:47.717+01:00Sunset Over MonyashHello and welcome to my first post on the blog. Having got into photography at the beginning of last year I now own a Nikon Coolpix P510 and a Nikon D5200. Currently living in the Peak District I have plenty of beautiful places to photograph. I hope you like my contributions.<br />
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I took this picture on a lovely April evening using a 55-300mm lens and the camera on full auto mode (yes I know but I only had about twenty minutes of light left and didn't have time to find the correct exposure settings).<br />
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The top picture has been retouched to bring out the colours with the original below.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-41909467874765529202014-04-21T00:43:00.001+01:002014-04-30T02:24:21.282+01:00New Admin and FREE SUBSCRIPTIONS by EmailMy friend <span class="proflinkWrapper"><span class="proflinkPrefix">+</span><a class="proflink aaTEdf" href="https://plus.google.com/112481133026047210579">Andrea</a></span>
is helping me to administer and maintain the Inner Vision Photography
side of things and is a contributor to this blog with full admin'
privileges! We
share a mutual interest in photography and even own the same camera so
we will be sharing our breakthroughs and images through this page and
this is an ideal opportunity to show case our inspiration and love for
the art of photography. This will include tips and tricks for taking
better photographs, things we learn as we go along and of course our
own digital still images. Feel free to ask anything and contact us through the blog. Also check our page over at <a href="https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/111804631818143915559/111804631818143915559/posts" target="_blank">Google</a> and give us a "Plus One". Also follow this blog... this is where most of the creativity will be happening as we develop the Inner Vision Photography platform. If you subscribe by email you will receive a notification every time the blog is updated with a new post. THIS IS COMPLETELY FREE OF CHARGE and you can easily unsubscribe at any time if you change your mind. We are aiming to update the blog regularly for our friends and subscribers and will be adding product reviews and recommendations too :)<br />
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Below is a photograph from Andrea's recent visit to see the <br />
Northern Lights in Norway, 240 miles inside the Arctic Circle.</div>
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View from the lodge balcony.</div>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-8138499695340472442014-04-20T02:00:00.002+01:002014-04-20T05:06:35.682+01:00The Humble Street LightI have actually got used to them now, but the new efficient LED street lights definitely have a calming
affect on people. I am wondering if the local carnival will be affected by
the new street lights? If you want to remember what the old pink
and orange streets lights look like (photographs below), visit Ryde Seafront on the Isle of Wight before they
change them... it is a much friendlier atmosphere. These photographs were taken at night with the Nikon D5200 on a mini-tripod resting on the sea wall. If you would like to know the actual camera settings you can see them on my Flickr photostream by clicking <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattblythe/" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Most of the photos were taken with around 1/4 of a second shutter speed and aperture at f5.6. You will find that if you increase the ISO to around 4000 at night, you can still use a reasonably fast shutter speed and not have to worry too much about camera shake. I experimented with the shots of Spinnaker Tower with longer shutter speeds and found the best results came at around 2 seconds exposure. I only had my 18-55mm lens with me and although it does not have much in the way of zooming in on far away objects, I find it very useful for framing a shot where wide angle is more of a priority. If your camera and/or lens has vibration reduction (VR) switch it on, otherwise use a tripod. And if you are lucky enough to have a built in light meter, that usually gives you some idea of the camera settings you will need for correct exposure, or is a good place to begin at least. As a general guide, nice bright shots can be achieved at night by upping your ISO, opening your aperture by using a smaller f stop number, and by decreasing your shutter speed.<br />
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Also watch the Youtube video embedded below for more inspirational and influential Inner Vision Photography ideas!<br />
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-32664378210576429532014-04-09T20:46:00.001+01:002014-04-09T20:46:31.041+01:00Awesome Peace<br />
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Photograph looking out over Sandown Bay at sunrise in April 2012.</center>
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Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5129983215262372514.post-46042342377071699392014-04-05T23:49:00.001+01:002014-04-05T23:49:34.303+01:00Macro Vision<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: normal;">Click image to Enlarge.</span></div>
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The subtle shadow and back-light make an outstanding macro opportunity.</div>
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Untouched and straight from my memory card. </div>
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Taken with the Canon S3 iS.</div>
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Copyrights © Matt Blythe 2014.</center>
Matt Blythehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09580341389306786152noreply@blogger.com0